Abstract
This chapter discusses the role of, and explore what should be understood by, the terms muscular strength, power and endurance: attributes that are considered amongst the most important predictors of climbing performance. It also describes climbing specific tests that correspond to the loading, movement and body positions typically found whilst climbing. Test specificity requires similar motor unit recruitment, type of contraction, speed of contraction, position of body segments and time characteristics of contraction to be considered. Climbing specific tests may be divided into four areas:
1) Finger flexors strength, involving isometric contraction of the finger flexors on a hold 2-3 cm deep with an open or crimp grip, with the tested arm above the head.
2) Finger flexors endurance, with either a) intermittent test until exhaustion with the 5-12 s contraction and 2-4 s relief at 30-80% MVC, or b) continuous finger hang with both hands on a 2-3 cm deep rung.
3) Shoulder girdle power with either a one or two arm explosive upward movement.
4) Shoulder girdle strength and endurance, bent-arm hang on one or both arms. Supporting normative data is provided for a large range of climbing specific tests, and for a broad spectrum of climbing abilities.